Canada II: The East Coast - Background Information

1. General
2. Montreal
3. Ottawa
4. Toronto
5. Niagara

• Weather in:
  • Montreal
  • Ottawa
  • Toronto

• Holiday Plans
• Holiday Photo Album
• Background Information

Tax

"Most goods and services in Quebec are subject to two taxes, a federal Goods and Services Tax of 7% (GST, usually listed as TPS on receipts) and a provincial sales tax of 7.5% (TVQ on receipts). Books are not provincially taxed, and most groceries are not taxed at all unless something counts as ready-to-eat.
Non-residents may reclaim the sales taxes they have paid on some goods and services, so you're advised to keep your bills and receipts. You can get copies of the necessary forms at customs, tourist information centres, hotels and some department stores." [from the montreal.com website]

Tipping

"A tip of 15% is customarily left for waiters and waitresses at the table, calculated on the pre-tax total of your bill. It will not be calculated for you, and you are free to leave more or less than this if circumstances warrant. In bars, the tip is handed over immediately as you pay for each drink or round. Taxi drivers also normally get a tip of 15%. " [from the montreal.com website]

Background

[from the montreal.com website] "Montreal is located at 45 30 N / 73 36 W. It is the largest city in Quebec and the second largest in Canada, with a metropolitan population of 3,359,000. The City of Montreal has an area of 68 sq mi/177 sq km and the whole metropolitan area 1,354 sq mi/3,509 sq km. Montreal is one of two large islands in this part of the St. Lawrence River (the other, Île Jésus, includes Laval and several other communities) and its highest point, Mount Royal, is 761 ft/ 232m high. Montreal island encompasses 27 municipalities of which the City of Montreal itself is the largest."

[from the lonely planet website] "Passion and pride run as deep as the waters around this stylish, bilingual island city. Founded on religious zeal and a mountain of skinned animals, Montreal has seen its fair share of bloodshed, but these days the battle between French and English is left to the increasingly sluggish referendum ballot. Dubbed one of the world's most liveable cities, Montreal's charm lies in its relaxed atmosphere rather than its star attractions, and a quiet amble can be as memorable as a visit to the sights.
The city is named for park-covered Mont Royal, the 232m (760ft) extinct volcano that towers over the city's central neighborhoods. The cobblestone streets of Montreal's old precinct are lined with stone houses, Paris-like cafes and architectural beauties like the 18th-century Pointe à Callière (Museum of Archaeology & History). The city's downtown boasts a swag of churches and fine museums - from Amerindian art to history, architecture and stuffed animals. And when the weather turns sour (January in Montreal is infamous), head for the underground city - a massive complex of climate-controlled shops and eateries, complete with its own Métro stop.

Montreal's guesthouses and smaller hotels are clustered on the edge of downtown and in the Plateau and Village - but be prepared for a battle for a bed come summer and Christmas time. Montreal nightlife is pretty damn bouncy and comes in two basic flavors, English and French. It's here that you'll find Canada's longest opening hours too. Some of the best club action is found around the Plateau at the southern end of downtown."

Airport Transfer

"Taxicabs serve both airports and are required by law to charge a flat rate for the trip plus posted rates for luggage handling. The current rate is $25 to Dorval and $56 to Mirabel. There are fees for baggage handling: prices are explicitly posted inside all taxicabs. Shuttle bus service runs from the downtown bus terminal (514-842-2281) with stops at Central Station (trains and the Queen Elizabeth Hotel) and several other downtown hotels before taking the highway to Dorval. Prices are lower than taxis, ranging from $7.25 to $9 for a one-way trip. A two-way ticket is cheaper if you plan on a return trip within a period of several months. Dorval Airport charges a $10 beautification tax when you arrive or depart. "

Transport

"There are two major downtown train stations, Central Station (Gare Centrale) and Windsor Station. Both are connected to the Bonaventure Metro station and are part of the underground city"


"Montreal has an excellent public transit system, the STCUM (Société des transports de la Communauté urbaine de Montréal) consisting of a subway system (see map), 140 bus routes (20 all-night routes), and two major commuter train lines. Dial A-U-T-O-B-U-S for information about getting around on the system or check the STCUM website. Maps and information about the system are available in every Metro station.
The metro lines shut down around 12:30 a.m., after which the system shifts over to night bus lines until around 5:30 a.m.
A monthly pass giving full access to the system costs $46. A tourist card giving full access for a day costs $5 and for three days costs $12. A strip of six tickets costs $8.25 and a single fare is $1.90. Bus drivers do not make change and do not sell tickets, but all metro stations have ticket booths and some convenience stores sell tickets and passes.
If you're using tickets or paying in cash, it's important to get a transfer, which will permit you to change from metro to bus or from bus to bus. You do not need a transfer to exit the metro system as you do in London or Paris - it's only needed if you want to be able to connect to a bus from the metro system. "

Alcohol

Entertainment

• Restaurant Vessels & Barrels ( Bar, Brew Pub) Sunday brunch from 10:00-15:00 Best in the West I 6321 Trans Canada Rte. (Complexe Pointe Claire) (514) 695-7550

Background

[from canada.com] "Ottawa has been described as one of the most beautiful capitals in the world. Less than an hour's drive from the American border, Ottawa enjoys the attributes of a major centre for the visual and performing arts, as well as other big city attractions. Yet, it still maintains the accessibility, atmosphere and charm of a smaller city, in addition to access to spectacular park and wilderness areas located within and around the city. "

[from canada.com] "Ottawa lies within Canada's Capital Region which is an area comprising two provinces (Ontario and Quebec) and two main cities (Ottawa and Hull), creating a region much like Washington in the United States. The region comprises 27 municipalities (11 on the Ontario side) and covers an area of 4,662 square kilometres (1,800 square miles). As it is situated on the border of Quebec and Ontario, Ottawa has developed as the result of a blend of English and French cultures; almost half of the residents are bilingual. Added to this mix is a growing ethnic diversity inspired by the city's German, Lebanese, Italian, Polish, Dutch, Portuguese and Asian populations, among others. The result is a truly cosmopolitan city that celebrates its heritage in many colourful, multicultural festivals and events throughout the year. "

Transport

"Transportation within the city of Ottawa is excellent whether on foot, by bus, bike or less conventional modes of transportation. The city's major advantage is that the downtown core is very compact and many of the sites and attractions are accessible on foot. Guided sightseeing tours, many of which operate on a schedule with flexible "on-off" privileges, allow visitors to stop and see the attractions of their choice. Sightseeing can be done via a walking tour, on an air-conditioned coach, a motorized trolley or on an authentic British double-decker bus. To experience the city up-close, visitors can rent a bicycle and pedal along Ottawa's designated bike lanes and scenic paths; or, pamper themselves and hire a rickshaw. Boat cruises along the Rideau Canal, Rideau River or Ottawa River are also a good way to see the sights.

Ottawa also boasts one of the most modern public transit systems in North America. As well, there are many taxi and car rental firms available to transport visitors around the town. For tourists in town and out using their own vehicles, they can relax - traffic in and around the capital is light and it's easy to get around. "

Shopping

MEC

Address:

366 Richmond Road, Ottawa, Ontario K2A 0E8 (between Churchill Ave and Roosevelt Ave)

Phone:

(613) 729-2700

Public Transit:

Transit waystop at Westboro, then transfer to #2, or #18.

Regular Hours:

Monday - Wednesday 10:00am - 7:00pm Thursday - Friday 10:00am - 9:00pm Saturday 9:00am - 6:00pm Sunday 11:00am - 5:00pm

Entertainment

"If it is entertainment visitors are looking for, the city has a variety of places to suit every taste. For those seeking dynamic entertainment, the ByWard Market and Elgin Street are well-known for their night clubs, pubs, straight and gay bars, dance clubs, and live music halls. Night clubs are open until two in the morning. Ottawa has five theatres staging plays, musicals, operas and classical concerts for the culturally oriented. The Corel Centre, an 18,500 seat sports and entertainment facility, offers NHL hockey, music's biggest stars, figure skating, family events and more. At the Casino de Hull, a world-class gaming facility, visitors can try their luck at the 45 gaming tables and 1, 250 slot machines. "

"Ottawa's status as an international capital and our ethnic diversity has created an exciting dining scene in Ottawa. The city offers a plethora of excellent restaurants many of which are conveniently located in the downtown core - in the historic By Ward Market, along Elgin Street, in "Chinatown" on Somerset Street West, and in "Little Italy" on Preston Street. Preston Street has received city approval for the semi-official name of "Corso Italia". From haute cuisine to the more contemporary and exotic ethnic foods, the region features a wonderful range of delicious fare. Food to suit just about any taste can be found - from African to Afghani, Canadian to French, German to Greek, from Lebanese to Mexican, Spanish to Sri Lankan, Thai to Turkish, vegetarian to Vietnamese and many others. " [from canada.com]

"The place: Brixton's, a new downtown bar named after one of the last stops on the London Underground, the city's subway system.
The address: 210 Sparks St. (footfalls east of Bank Street). The hours: Monday to Friday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Closed weekends until spring.
The atmosphere: Sandwiched between the Cock & Lion and SoHo on Sparks Street, one might suspect Brixton's is an English pub trying to capitalize on the "British-ness" of its surroundings. You'd only be half right. Cross the high-class pub feel of the Royal Oak on Wellington Street with the youthful Social lounge in the Byward Market, and that's the feel Brixton's seems to be shooting for.
The look: The room is incredibly long and narrow, meaning the bar, which runs along the right-hand side upon entering, seems particularly extended on first glance. On the left side are framed photos or paintings by area residents. (Art changes every two months.) The chairs and most of the wall are made of varnished wood that practically sparkles, while the upper half of the walls is painted bright crimson red. At night, the lights are dimmed and candles throughout the bar give it a more relaxed, bohemian feel. The clientele: Brixton's is only a block away from Parliament Hill, and tends to attract those in government or executive-level business people during the lunch hour. In the evening, the bar staff turns off the piped-in jazz music and leans toward a blend of rock, acid-jazz and quiet lounge music. Younger, but still upscale, patrons in their 20s and 30s tend to frequent during those hours. Manager Dany Bitar is hoping to attract those who appreciate fine art. Seating capacity is 75 people. The food and drink: The bar has a full lunch menu, but tapers off to appetizers after 2 p.m. It has a wide range of domestic microbrewery and imported beer. A 20-ounce glass of the former costs $4.95 and the latter costs $5.95 (including tax). A wine list is available. The quote: "We're halfway between a martini lounge and an after-work pub. There's a nice ambience, but it's not too high-class." "

"The place: The Manx Pub, 370 Elgin St. (corner of Frank Street, down the stairs)
The hours: Open daily from 11:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. Monday to Friday, 10 a.m. to 2 a.m. on Saturday, and 10 a.m. to 1 a.m. on Sunday. Brunch is served Saturday and Sunday between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m.
The scene: Descending the stairs from bustling Elgin Street, you'll find this relaxed English-style pub the ideal setting for a good conversation -- whether it's an intimate chat or a night out with the gang. Rich red velvet bench seating and shiny copper-topped tables line this pub that seats 70. Three large dark stained wood posts separate the smaller non-smoking area from the larger smoking area which has two stand-alone bars in the middle of the room and a full-service bar at the back that seats six.
The draw: Each month the work of an Ottawa artist is displayed on the pub's white walls. A vernissage is held on a Saturday afternoon once a month so customers can meet the artist (vernissage dates are listed on the back of the Manx menu). Chess, Scrabble, Trivial Pursuit and other games are available for those interested in creating their own entertainment, since there are no TVs or piped-in music to break thought patterns or drown out conversation.
The sound: Weekly live entertainment, featuring Ottawa singer/songwriters and alternative bands, is a highlight on Sunday and Monday nights (no cover). Aslo check out the Manx's twice-yearly reading series, including poetry and book launches.
The surprise: While there is traditional pub-style fare like shepherd's pie and burgers, you can also explore choices like the Sri Lankan wrap, Moroccan vegetable stew, and grilled salmon on baby greens (average price $10).
The drink: The Manx offers the largest variety of single malt and specialized whiskies in Ottawa -- with 10 varieties of bourbon and sour mash whiskies, 12 varieties of Irish whisky and 50 varieties of single malt whisky. The average price is $5 to $8, but some can go as high as $30. There's also a healthy variety of regional and imported draft on tap and by the bottle, as well as wine, traditional spirits and liqueurs.
The quote: "A lot of time we become an extension of people's livingrooms, only much more dynamic," says co-owner Chris Swail. "

"Features Bars 101: Students' favourite hangouts The scholarly pursuit of a good time Herman Chan Ottawa.Com Thu Jan 18 It's late on a Friday afternoon and you've just walked out of your last lecture for the week. What is a university student in Ottawa to do?
Well, you can start by finding a local bar and getting yourself something to drink. Ottawa has an abundance of establishments ready to quench any student's thirst for a beer and a good time. Ottawa.Com consulted a number of knowledgeable students to find out their favourite bar hangouts on your behalf.
Stacey Fulcher, 21, a third-year journalism and history major at Carleton University, says Rooster's Coffeehouse, located in the school's Unicentre is definitely her favourite bar in town. "It's a great place," Fulcher says. "It's filled with Carleton students, so you pretty much know everyone there. If you don't them yet, you'll get to know them after. It's a happy atmosphere." Besides having a wide selection of beer and coffee at low prices in comparison to off-campus bars and cafes, Rooster's also holds karaoke nights and other interactive events.
Another third-year journalism student, Katya Diakow, 20, suggests adventurous students to check out lesser-known places for something a little different. "I really like the Aloha Room on Bank St. It's not a really well-known bar and it's usually not very busy, but they do have a DJ playing and they have decorations on the wall to look at," she explains. "It's toned down in its background as well, so it's a good place to go with a small group of friends." But she still enjoys Rooster's the most because it's a pub tailor-made for students. "If I'm on campus and I just need a place to relax for awhile or if I'm just looking for friends between classes - it's a good place to find those things,"
Diakow says. However, University of Ottawa students don't share the same feelings towards their on-campus bar, The Nox. Fourth-year music major Christina Leibbrandt, 24, says The Nox is too dark and noisy. "It's definitely not the place to relax, " she says. "But it's the thing to do if you live in residence, so I've heard from my friends in first-year. It is convenient."
Erica Mooney, 22, a third-year English major, also isn't a fan of U of O's only bar. But when it comes down to off-campus bars and pubs, both U of O students are in agreement that Zaphod's I, located in the Byward Market on York St. is their bar of choice for one specific reason. "After Hi-Fi closed down," Mooney explains. "It's the only place in town to see Ottawa bands." Leibbrandt admits she's not a big fan of bars, but she does go to Zaphod's to check out the local talent on occasion. "I like it there because my friend's band Ultraviolet used to play there," she says.
Elementary school teacher Scott Grieson, 28, recently graduated from the teacher's college at University of Ottawa, but is still known by his peers as an authority on the local bar scene. "My favourite bar has to be Barrymore's on Bank St," Grieson says. "It's always a fun time and they have a really good staff. In fact, it's the best concert hall I've ever been in."
Grieson also highly recommends the Heart & Crown, located on Clarence St. in the Byward Market and the Royal Oak on Bank St. "They're really cosy places," he says. On the same note, second-year communications major Adrienne Sin, 19, enjoys going to bars that play good music in a relaxed atmosphere. "I like Social (on Sussex) because you can sit down and talk at the same time," she says. "You're not forced to dance, unlike other bars."
While Sin prefers the low-key vibe of a martini lounge like Social, fourth-year Carleton communications major Brock Reidy, 21, doesn't mind paying a little more for a place with a good atmosphere and a broad range of music to dance to. "The Show is probably my favourite bar," he says. "There's a good mix of people that go there. In terms of attire, some people dress up or you can go there dressed down. They play a wide variety of music - hip-hop, R&B, techno and trance. Everyone's there to have a good time and as the format of the club, they have two dance floors -- one elevated -- and a lounge upstairs with couches. It's a pretty good value for your money." "The drinks are a little more expensive there compared to other bars like Houlihan's or Stoney's," Reidy says, "but they're just a supplementary portion of the evening. It's not going to make or break my night, if I'm going to pay fifty cents more for a drink."
Reidy, who hails from Vancouver, says he likens going to bars to attending an "event" as opposed to hanging out. "If I wanted to just hang out, I would rather have people over at my place or go to a movie. However, there is a place across from the Liquor Dome (on Byward St.) called the Crimson Clover," Reidy says. "They have live music on Friday and Saturday nights. On Fridays, they have Celtic music and on Saturdays, they have a band playing covers. It's definitely less uptown." So whether you're in the mood to shake it a little or have a conversation with a few friends over a couple of beers, there's a place for everybody in Ottawa. The places mentioned above are just suggestions, so don't be afraid to pay a visit to a bar near you. Like Forrest Gump said, "You never know what you're gonna get." "

Comedy

• The Institution ( Bar, Comedy Club) Ottawa's 3-D Comedy Club 390 Bank Street (613) 563-2255
• Yuk Yuk's Stand Up Comedy ( Bar, Comedy Club) Stand up comedy 88 Albert St. (613) 236-5233
  

Brew Pubs

• (P)The Arrow & Loon Bank Street Name: Jeff Kiernan, (jpkiernan@hotmail.com) reports: Excellent food, excellent beer - usually with at least one tap of cask-conditioned ale from the Hart brewery. It's also a member of the Neighbourhood Pubs Association of Ontario - a sure sign of a good place.
• (P)Barley Mow, on Bank St. just north of Sunnyside. jporter@cyberplus.ca (Jeff Porter) says:This was the first place in Ottawa that serves cask conditioned ales. The offer some cask conditioned Hart products.
• (BP)Clock Tower, Bank Street at Pretoria. Formerly Addington's
• (BP)Major's Brew House 453 Sussex Dr jporter@magma.ca (Jeff Porter) says:A huge improvement over the first Ottawa Brewpub,good food with a strong European influence. While various beers are listed on the menu, only a few are available at any given time. Worth visiting. Pleasent location and patio area (in season!).
• The Manx Pub (370 Elgin, downstairs, corner of Frank and Elgin, phone 231-2070) 8-10 taps with Ontario products like Hart Dragon's Breath, Algonquin Amber, a couple of Upper Canada, etc, plus the usual British selection. This place is also almost always fairly crowded (and full of smoke).
• (BP)The Master's Brasserie and Brewpub 330 Queen St

Background

Toronto is Canada's most exciting city-and our hostel is located only minutes away from over 150 nightclubs, restaurants, theaters and other attractions. The world famous CN Tower is around the corner from our front door and the funky atmosphere of Queen St. West is just up the street! Chinatown, the Kensington markets and most museums are all within walking distance. Plenty of inexpensive restaurants catering to every taste can be found nearby. We can also visit the zoo, sail on Lake Ontario, cycle the local pathways or simply hang out at one of the city's many sidewalk cafes.

Shopping

MEC

Address:

400 King St. West, Toronto, Ontario M5V 1K2 (between Charlotte St and Peter St)

Phone:

(416) 340-2667

Public Transit:

University Subway to St. Andrew Station, then take the westbound King Street streetcar to Peter Street.

Regular Hours:

Monday - Wednesday 10:00am - 7:00pm Thursday - Friday 10:00am - 9:00pm Saturday 9:00am - 6:00pm Sunday 11:00am - 5:00pm

Entertainment

Brew-Pubs

• C'est What, 67 Front Street East Toronto ON Canada M5E 1B5. A great value "ethno-clectic" menu serving multi-cultural comfort food 29 craft brewed beers on tap Fine whiskies from the world over Select all Ontario VQA wine list An adjoining Live music [from cestwhat.com]
  
• The Steam Whistle [from, beerloverstour.com]:
  
• Beer Street A Granite Brewery House 729 Danforth Ave, Toronto, Ontario ( just east of the Pape subway station) ,
• Denison's Brewing Co. & Restaurants Home Page brewing co. & restaurants (416) 360-5877 75 Victoria St. Toronto, ON M5C 2B1,
• (MB)Amsterdam Brewing Co 600 King St (416) 504-1040 Formerly Rotterdam Brewing Co. Servers very good value meals, and has a very large selection of draft and bottled beers. Before 8:00 p.m., you can buy samplers of 4 different draft beers. George West (gswest@usa.net) reports:had a Nut Brown, Dutch Amber, and Oktoberfest - that all tasted like lagers - a little disappointing, located far west of town - take streetcar down king St.
• (BP)Al Frisco's 133 John St (P)Bow & Arrow, (Yonge north of Davisville)
• (MB)Cameron's Brewing Co. 1 Westside Drive, Unit 4 M9C 1B2 PH: 416-620-4245 Fax: 416-620-4247 Brewing since 1997, Cameron's Cream Ale and Cameron's Auburn Ale Maintains a website
• (BP)C'est What? 67 Front Street East In addition to their own -- their Coffee Porter is yummy -- they have Wellington cask ales, and some "experimental" beers -- beers that small brewers are trying to gauge consumer reaction.) George West (gswest@usa.net) reports:by far best selection, but high prices, the coffee porter was ok, but not "yummy" as one person put it - the coffee taste was strong and almost seemed like too much was used, also had their own cask bitter, which was also a little disappointing, had many other locals and their own on tap to try. Maintains a website
• (BP)Denison's Brewing Co 75 Victoria St George West (gswest@usa.net) reports:is the bar section of a restaurant - focus is ont he restaurant - 3 beers on tap, wheat, lager and a Doppel - only tried the Doppel, which was true to form - CAN $6 for 22 oz - not far from C'est What off Yonge
• (BP)Feathers 962 Kingston Rd Maintains a website
• (BP)Granite Brewery (No 2) 245 Eglinton Ave E Has a website
• (BP)James Gate 1661 Bloor Street W
• (BOP)Lakeside Brewery 1210 Kingston Rd. 694-1835 Maintains a website
• (BP)Lighthouse Brewpub, 143 Duke Street, Bowmanville
  
  

Background

[from niagarafalls.worldweb.com] Niagara Falls is a great place to visit for all seasons. Although the winter is cold, it has a special magic of its own and the landscape is totally transformed. There is the International Winter Festival of Lights held by the falls from November to January. Spring brings thousands of tulips and daffodils. Summers are mainly warm and sunny, and fall brings a magnificent array of colours along the banks of the river and in the many parks.

Attractions

Think of the actual attraction of Niagara Falls and most people think of visitors in yellow hooded raincoats viewing the falls up-close from the 'Maid of the Mist' boat. This is the classical Niagara Falls attraction, and is a phenomenal experience. The boat departs every 15 minutes, and takes visitors in front of the American Falls and into the Horseshoe of the Canadian Falls, you will soon understand the reason behind the raincoats, which are included in the price of the ticket.

	Horseshoe Falls at Niagara

The other activity at the actual falls that is in the 'must do' category is the Journey Behind the Falls. This entails descending in an elevator to three tunnels that provide excellent and close vantage points from behind the Horseshoe Falls, and of the Niagara River. This is the way to really observe the true force of the falls. Another fantastic way of seeing the falls is by helicopter. Niagara Helicopter Rides provides this service. This provides an incredible view of the falls and the surrounding area. The trip takes nine minutes and operates all year round from 9.00am to sunset weather permitting.

North of Niagara Falls is the town of Niagara-on-the-Lake. There are two attractions here that make a visit well worthwhile. Fort George National Historic Site was built from 1796-99. It was the principal British garrison in the district and was captured and occupied by the Americans in 1813. The British recaptured it, but they abandoned it in the early 1820's. It has now been restored to how it was in 1812. Costumed and uniformed guides relive those times, and this includes such activities as boat building, musket firing, blacksmithing and cooking. There are also fife and drum drills. All these activities make it easy to imagine how life was in the early nineteenth century.

Niagara Peninsula Grapes

The other attraction at Niagara-on-the-Lake is the world famous Shaw Festival. This is held at three theatres in the downtown area. Its dozen yearly plays all feature work by George Bernard Shaw and his contemporaries. The season runs from April to November.

Another side trip from Niagara Falls is to the Welland Canal Centre. The Welland Canal lies some 13 km west of the falls. It provides passage for shipping between Lake Ontario and Lake Erie, as ships obviously cannot navigate the Niagara River because of the falls. Visit the Welland Canal Centre for a first rate views of the ships as they transfer the many lock systems of the canal. The centre has an observation platform and also houses the St. Catherines Museum. Ships navigate the canal from
April to December.

Winery Restaurant

[from toronto.com] "5600 King Street West Beamsville, ON L0R 1B0 Phone: (905) 563-0900 Fax: (905) 563-0995:

HOURS Wed-Sun 11:30am-3:00pm; 5:00pm-10pm PAYMENT INFO Amex Cash MasterCard Traveler's Cheques

Worth the drive to Niagara But Peninsula Ridge Restaurant needs more creative consistency to attract Toronto foodies Review by Mara Subotincic & Alan A. Vernon (Published November 2, 2001) If we told you to drive halfway to Buffalo just for dinner, you'd probably think we were nuts. Well we have nerve, but we also have reason. For starters, dinner at one of the fine winery restaurants in Niagara is rarely just dinner -- it's a wine tutorial. As some of you may have discovered after reading our recent wine-dining feature, Niagara is quickly gaining a reputation as Napa Valley North. Fine food, fine wine and beautiful country.
And while chefs may pursue many different directions, a common theme is unifying the evolution of Canada's -- no, make that North America's -- vast culinary landscape: building a cuisine around locally-farmed ingredients.
One such chef is Montreal-trained Caroline McCann-Bizjak. As chef of the Québec Government House in New York City, McCann-Bizjak (related to Canadian fashion designer Mimi Bizjak) was used to cooking for diplomats and political dignitaries -- a feather in any chef's toque. But she gave it all up when she got married and returned to her husband's native Beamsville, Ontario. After meeting Peninsula Ridge Estates Winery owners Norman and Sherry Beal, her fate was sealed.
Originally, she and Ned Bell, formerly of Sen5es and Vancouver's Lumiere, were appointed co-chefs of this fine winery restaurant. But three months after its June opening, Bell exited, putting Bizjak at the helm of the kitchen of this red brick, Queen Anne-style hilltop house.
Built in 1885, it's typically Victorian: the front porch has an overhead balcony that features turned posts, balustrades, spandrels and brackets. The building itself is replete with cedar shingles, turrets, finials, gables, keystones and bay windows. Bob Vila monologue aside, the interior of this two-floor winery restaurant pales by comparison.
Even with the cherry wood staircase, grained red pine floors, a fireplace and a gigantic Persian rug, the owners failed to integrate décor with an historic touch. That would explain the main dining room's corporate-like coldness; fine for a Fortune 500 boardroom, but it lacks the warmth, charm and character one would expect in a fully-restored period house. By contrast, our server's warm welcome is unexpected.
We're more than an hour late for our reservation thanks to some incomprehensible highway signage and directions c/o a Wine Regions of Ontario tour map. Advice: pay for a properly-detailed map instead. With the driving ordeal over, we finally settle in by a bay window with, on a clear day, a view of the Toronto skyline from across the lake. We're greeted and showered with their attentiveness and professionalism, taking in their kindness between sips of a '99 Cabernet Franc ($7 per glass). Peninsula Ridge is lucky to have winemaker Jean-Pierre Colas (from Domaine Laroche winery in Chablis, France), a recipient of Wine Spectator's White Wine of the Year award in '98. But where most winery restaurants only serve their own wines, here, guests get to sample the best from many wineries in the region.
Sit back and savour pats of Mennonite-churned butter, sitting in a pool of organic canola oil; it's a notch above, as is an ameuse bouche of cured salmon and a hard-boiled quail egg arranged on a teardrop-shaped plate. But a shockingly-priced parsnip and pheasant broth soup ($12) is expensive by any fine-dining standard. Skeptical, we ask ourselves how they can justify this double-digit price tag. The soup may sound simple, but buried beneath the menu description is an element of surprise. Would you believe a quarter pheasant breast resting in the middle of the bowl? A meal unto itself, the dish is garnished with lightly-sautéed celeriac, and pumpkin-seed oil, which add even more dimension and intrigue for our taste buds. A major hit.
Another opener has us sampling pan-seared scallops ($15) set on a very pleasing ragout of thinly-sliced fennel, leeks and spinach in a corn and caviar emulsion. But the chef's classically French style seems to restrain her creativity, and has us wishing for more innovation. So, too, with the watercress, spinach and hazelnut salad ($14). Grilled, locally-grown mutsu apples are prepared ahead of time, so their refrigerator-chill deprives the greens of a touch of warmth. A thin, buckwheat honey vinaigrette merely glazes the leaves with a white, visually weak, translucent liquid. Thankfully, the salad is rescued by a slice of Roche Baron, a pasteurized cow cheese from France. Magnifique!
Our red grouper ($32) arrives more on the rare side of medium rare. This might explain the fillet's slightly viscous quality. Blood oranges are described as a contrasting flavour contour -- one of the main reasons for ordering this dish. Yet, we aren't told that they aren't available, so we suffer with a more pedestrian substitute. On a positive note, a delicious broth with braised endives is rich and full-bodied, without being thick and syrupy. Oh, and did they mention curry? Undetectable.
You'll fare far better with a stuffed rabbit loin ($36). This mild white game meat is a pleasant diversion from the undercooked grouper. A seared-till-crispy wrap of double-smoked bacon packs lots of punch with both texture and flavour. Elegantly arranged and visually-effective shiitake mushrooms and spinach, and an enjoyable mushroom, butternut squash and roasted fingerling potato medley, scented with sage, make the perfect accompaniments for this time of year.
"Studies" in pear, apple and chocolate ($9) inspire us to approach dessert with intrigue. The chocolate study involves three, petit four-sized truffle-like treats served with homemade ice cream. Frankly, they all taste a little bland, lacking a good bittersweet, wine-like nuance. From a creative perspective, the orange and chocolate combo is more than typical -- it's a trifle trite. Not to mention that each is remarkably similar to the other, which begs the question: what study?
Despite an obvious need for more creativity and a closer eye to detail, the Restaurant at Peninsula Ridge is one to keep your eyes peeled on. Given some time, they should blossom. Now, more than ever, as Niagara's wine route becomes more of an international destination for tourists, Peninsula Ridge Estates is sure to benefit from this new spotlight on the region. But to attract Toronto foodies and make it worth the drive, McCann-Bizjak's French-Canadian slant will need some updating if it's to blend better with Niagara's new culinary landscape. "